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History
According to archaeologists and anthropologists, the earliest clothing
probably consisted of fur, leather, leaves or grass, draped, wrapped
or tied about the body for protection from the elements. Knowledge
of such clothing remains inferential, since clothing materials deteriorate
quickly compared to stone, bone, shell and metal artifacts. Archeologists
have identified very early sewing needles of bone and ivory from
about 30,000 BC, found near Kostenki, Russia, in 1988.
Ralf Kittler, Manfred Kayser and Mark Stoneking, anthropologists
at the Max Planck Institute for Evolutionary Anthropology, have
conducted a genetic analysis of human body lice that indicates that
they originated about 107,000 years ago. Since most humans have
very sparse body hair, body lice require clothing to survive, so
this suggests a surprisingly recent date for the invention of clothing.
Its invention may have coincided with the spread of modern Homo
sapiens from the warm climate of Africa, thought to have begun between
50,000 and 100,000 years ago. However, a second group of researchers
used similar genetic methods to estimate that body lice originated
about 540,000 years ago (Reed et al. 2004. PLoS Biology 2(11): e340).
For now, the date of the origin of clothing remains unresolved.
Some human cultures, such as the various peoples of the Arctic Circle,
until recently made their clothing entirely of furs and skins, cutting
clothing to fit and decorating lavishly.
Other cultures have supplemented or replaced leather and skins with
cloth: woven, knitted, or twined from various animal and vegetable
fibres. See weaving, knitting, and twining.
Although modern consumers take clothing for granted, making the
fabrics that go into clothing is not easy. One sign of this is that
the textile industry was the first to be mechanized during the Industrial
Revolution; before the invention of the powered loom, textile production
was a tedious and labor-intensive process. Therefore, methods were
developed for making most efficient use of textiles.
One approach simply involves draping the cloth. Many peoples wore,
and still wear, garments consisting of rectangles of cloth wrapped
to fit — for example, the dhoti for men and the saree for
women in the Indian subcontinent, the Scottish kilt or the Javanese
sarong. The clothes may simply be tied up, as is the case of the
first two garments; or pins or belts hold the garments in place,
as in the case of the latter two. The precious cloth remains uncut,
and people of various sizes or the same person at different sizes
can wear the garment.
Another approach involves cutting and sewing the cloth, but using
every bit of the cloth rectangle in constructing the clothing. The
tailor may cut triangular pieces from one corner of the cloth, and
then add them elsewhere as gussets. Traditional European patterns
for men's shirts and women's chemises take this approach.
Modern European fashion treats cloth much more prodigally, typically
cutting in such a way as to leave various odd-shaped cloth remnants.
Industrial sewing operations sell these as waste; home sewers may
turn them into quilts.
In the thousands of years that humans have spent constructing clothing,
they have created an astonishing array of styles, many of which
we can reconstruct from surviving garments, photos, paintings, mosaics,
etc., as well as from written descriptions. Costume history 0serves
as a source of inspiration to current fashion designers, as well
as a topic of professional interest to costumers constructing for
plays, films, television, and historical reenactment.
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